福至味永：在豆腐里捶打六百年传承
The Taste of Fortune: 600 Years in a Stuffed Tofu

福字匾下的六百年风味，始于通州一家老店门前那块浑厚的牌匾。当来自阿尔巴尼亚的留学生亨利好奇为何店门上题着一个“福”字而不是豆腐的“腐”字时，非遗传承人孙振洪报以温厚的微笑。他解释道，这不仅仅是一个字，更是一份流传了六百年的朴素心愿——愿每一位品尝瓤豆腐的客人，都能将这份可触的“福气”吃进腹中，携回生活。一块柔白的豆腐，一个墨饱笔酣的“福”字，连缀起的远不止于味觉的眷恋，更是一段穿越时空的文化绵延。

This flavor of six centuries comes from a time-honored shop in Tongzhou District, beneath a solid, weighty “Fu” (fortune) plaque. When Henry, an international student from Albania, wondered why the character “fu” meaning fortune rather than “tofu” was inscribed above the door, Mr. Sun Zhenghong, the inheritor of this intangible cultural heritage, responded with a warm, gentle smile. He explained that it was more than just a character; it was a simple, enduring wish passed down through six hundred years—a hope that every guest who tastes the Stuffed Tofu might take this tangible “fortune” into themselves and carry it back into their lives. A piece of soft white tofu and a single, richly inked character for “fortune” connect far more than a lingering memory of taste; they thread together a cultural continuum that has traversed time and space.

漕运码头瓤豆腐门店牌匾

The plaque of Stuffed Tofu shop at Tongzhou’s grain transport dock

这道名为“瓤豆腐”的佳肴，亦称“洪武豆腐”，本是一道源自安徽凤阳的传统名肴。史料记载，明洪武十三年，朱元璋四子朱棣沿京杭大运河北上，将此味携至通州。随着永乐迁都，这道曾经的宫廷菜式逐渐流入民间，历经六百年的传承与改良，终成通州巷陌皆知的风味标志。2024年，瓤豆腐制作技艺正式列入通州区非物质文化遗产名录，为其传承写下庄重的注脚。

Stuffed Tofu, historically known as “Hongwu Tofu”, is a traditional dish from Fengyang, Anhui. Historical records show that in the thirteenth year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1380 AD), Zhu Di, the fourth son of Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang, brought it north to Tongzhou via the Grand Canal. Following the later relocation of the capital during the Yongle reign, the once-imperial delicacy gradually entered common kitchens. Through six centuries of adaptation, it evolved into a beloved local signature in Tongzhou. In 2024, the craft of making the Stuffed Tofu was formally inscribed on the district’s intangible cultural heritage list, a testament to its enduring legacy.

孙振洪向亨利讲述瓤豆腐与运河相伴共生的历史

Sun Zhenghong introduces the shared history of Stuffed Tofu and the Grand Canal

在制作师傅胡红兵的指导下，亨利第一次接触到制作瓤豆腐的老豆腐。随后，一柄木槌递入手中，他开始了关键步骤的体验。“需用木槌，捶打豆腐九九八十一下。”胡红兵边示范边讲解，直至豆腐生出黏性，提起时带着明显的吸附力，方算功成。当亨利问及是否可用机器替代这繁复捶打时，胡师傅的回答平和而坚定：不觉得累，这传承了六百年的手艺，必须仰赖双手。机器固然能带来效率，却无法复刻那经由时间、体温与耐心沉淀而来的“手气”与“人心”——这正是非遗技艺的灵魂所在。

Guided by craftsman Hu Hongbing, Henry felt the firm “old tofu” for the first time. Then, a wooden mallet was placed in his hands for the pivotal process. “The tofu must be pounded exactly eighty-one times,” Hu demonstrated, explaining that it was ready only when it became sticky and lifted with a clinging resistance. When Henry asked if machines could replace this labor, Mr. Hu’s reply was calm yet firm: it wasn’t tiring—this was a six-century-old craft that must be entirely made by hand to preserve its authentic flavor. Machines offer efficiency, but they cannot replicate the unique “touch of the hands” and “heart of the maker” sedimented through time, body warmth, and patience—the very soul of intangible cultural heritage.

专业制作师傅指导留学生亨利亲身体验瓤豆腐制作

Professional chef guides international student Henry in hands-on experience of making Stuffed Tofu

捶打后的豆腐泥柔软而富韧性，随之而来的包馅环节更具挑战。胡红兵悉心指导：左手四指并拢作窝状，右手填入馅料，慢慢收口，让豆腐皮均匀裹住四种馅料。亨利初试时，难免破皮露馅或厚薄不均。胡师傅鼓励道，精髓在于让四馅均匀分布，如此每一口都能同时品尝到豆腐的滑嫩与馅料的丰腴，方成至味。几经尝试，亨利终于捧出一个虽不完美却完整成形的瓤豆腐，他不禁感叹这一步的举重若轻，实则凝聚着手艺人对材料秉性与指尖劲道的精微掌控。

The pounded tofu paste, now soft and pliant, presented the next challenge: wrapping the filling. Mr. Hu instructed patiently: cup the left hand, place the filling with the right hand, and gently seal it, ensuring the tofu skin evenly envelops the four different fillings. Henry’s initial attempts led to breaks or uneven wraps. The essence, Mr. Hu encouraged, was an even distribution, so each bite perfectly combined the tofu’s silkiness with the filling’s richness. After several tries, Henry held a complete, if imperfect, dumpling, marveling at the dexterity this “simple” step required—a testament to the craftman’s subtle control over the material and the precise pressure of a fingertip.

包好的豆腐团被轻置于平底锅中，油温已精准控于150℃。“每面煎八分钟，莫急翻动，轻推即可。”孙振洪在一旁提醒。待豆腐团两面烙至均匀的金黄，亨利小心叉起一块，吹散热气，咬下一口。那瞬间的滚烫过后，绽放出的绝妙滋味让他立时决定，一定要让远在阿尔巴尼亚的家人也尝到此味。

The wrapped tofu balls were gently placed into a flat pan with the oil preheated to exactly 150°C. “Fry each side for eight minutes. Don’t rush to flip—a gentle nudge is enough,” Sun Zhenghong reminded. When both sides turned golden brown, Henry carefully forked a piece, blew away the heat, and took a bite. After the initial scalding, warmth bloomed a revelation of flavor, compelling an instant vow to share this taste with his family back in Albania.

非遗传承人孙振洪为亨利讲解瓤豆腐的制作精要

The inheritor, Sun Zhenghong, explains the essential techniques of making Stuffed Tofu to Henry

作为传承人，孙振洪深知，非遗的生命力不仅在于守护，更在于生动的传播。他收徒授艺，创办企业，推动瓤豆腐走向更广阔的市场；更与食品企业携手，筹划建设“非遗瓤豆腐体验博物馆”，让更多人得以亲手触碰这段流淌于食物中的历史。

As a heritage bearer, Sun Zhenghong understands that preservation alone is not enough; vitality requires active sharing. He mentors apprentices, founded an enterprise to bring Stuffed Tofu to a wider market, and partners with food companies to plan an “ICH Stuffed Tofu Experience Museum”, allowing more people to touch this history that flows through food.

他的这份传播自觉，源自血脉深处的文化召唤。这门家族技艺至今已传至第五代。孙振洪作为第四代传人，自幼便浸润于母亲与外婆烹制的瓤豆腐香气中。这份深入骨髓的记忆与情感，最终让他毅然辞去原有工作，全心投身于这项事业的传承与发扬。2023年，其企业与河北知名食品企业达成合作，共推瓤豆腐的规模化生产与文化传播。未来，他们还计划通过非遗进社区、进校园等活动，讲述瓤豆腐背后的大运河故事、家族记忆与文化根脉。“瓤豆腐不仅是食物，”孙振洪说，“它是通州历史的一部分，是运河文化、民间智慧与家庭情感的结晶。”

His awareness of sharing and propagating springs from a call deep within his lineage culture. This craft is now in its fifth generation. Mr. Sun, a fourth-generation inheritor, grew up surrounded by the aroma of his mother and grandmother’s cooking. This memory and emotion, etched deep into his mind, ultimately led him to resolutely leave his former career and devote himself wholeheartedly to the preservation and promotion of this tradition. In 2023, his company partnered with a leading Hebei food producer to jointly advance the scale production and cultural promotion of Stuffed Tofu. Future plans include bringing the heritage into communities and classrooms, sharing the stories of the Grand Canal, family, and cultural roots carried within the dish. “Stuffed Tofu is more than food,” Mr. Sun says. “It is a piece of Tongzhou’s history, a crystallization of canal culture, folk wisdom, and family bonds.”

瓤豆腐每一口都能同时品尝到豆腐的滑嫩与馅料的丰腴

Each bite of Stuffed Tofu combines the tofu’s silkiness with the filling’s richness

临别时，亨利对胡红兵感慨，今日不仅学做了一道菜，更听懂了一段深沉的历史，他定会将这故事带回故乡。胡师傅轻拍其肩，笑称他已是瓤豆腐的“美食文化使者”。

Before leaving, Henry told Hu Hongbing that today he learned not just to make a dish, but to understand a piece of history—a story he would surely carry home. Mr. Hu patted his shoulder, calling him a “gastronomic culture ambassador” for Stuffed Tofu.

从京杭大运河畔的漕运码头，到万家灯火的节庆餐桌；从一门家族秘方，到一项非遗名录；从通州古城的一爿小店，到走向世界的文化名片——瓤豆腐所走过的，不仅是一条长达六百年的食味之旅，更是一部流动的、温暖的、至今仍在续写的中式生活史诗。而店门匾额上那个深邃的“福”字，也随着每一口豆腐，被品尝，被铭记，被携带，去向更远的远方。

From the docks along the Grand Canal to the festive tables aglow with light; from a family secret recipe to an entry on the intangible cultural heritage list; from a modest shop in old Tongzhou to a cultural icon stepping onto the world stage—the journey of Stuffed Tofu is more than a six-century migration of taste. It is a flowing, warm, and still-unfolding epic of Chinese daily life. And the profound “Fu” on the shop plaque travels with every bite of tofu —tasted, remembered, and carried onward to distant horizons.