酱香满溢，经年留香：京城风味中的非遗传承

“酱香九州地唯品质是天,店久十万朝乃诚信为本。”京城著名老字号天福号,以其酱肘子名闻遐迩,自乾隆三年创立至今,已走过280余年的辉煌历程。十代非遗传承人薪火相传,将传统酱香技艺发扬光大,同时紧跟现代市场步伐,让中华老字号在传承与创新中焕发新生,不断满足新一代消费者的需求。自2008年“天福号酱肘技艺”荣登第一批国家级非物质文化遗产名录以来,天福号便肩负起了保护与传承这一宝贵文化遗产的重要使命。

“Infusing the land with rich flavors, quality is the paramount; a shop standing for a hundred thousand days, integrity is the essence .” Tianfu Hao, a renowned old brand in Beijing, is famous for its braised pork hocks. Since its establishment in the third year of Emperor Qianlong's reign, this esteemed brand has enjoyed a remarkable journey spanning over 280 years. Ten generations of inheritors have preserved the traditional techniques of sauce-making, adapting them to meet the demands of the modern market. This blend of tradition and innovation has allowed the brand to continually meet the needs of new generations of consumers. Since 2008, when “Tianfu Hao’s braised pork hock technique was recognized as part of the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage, Tianfu Hao has embraced the vital mission of safeguarding and passing on this valuable cultural legacy.

(天福号门牌 Tianfu Hao’s Doorplate)

福号的酱肘技艺,承载着一段传奇。传说创始人因其酱肘风味独特,获慈禧太后青睐,赐予腰牌,每日进贡御膳,成就了“乾隆酱汁传百年,慈禧腰牌通天下”的佳话。自乾隆年间,天福号恪守“师徒相承”的古法,代代相传,每位传承人仅纳三徒,确保酱香正宗。“传统技艺的传承,其实是一场坚守。”天福号刘刚总经理说道,“互联网发展的速度确实很快,但食品行业恰恰不应该是一个追求速度的行业。”因此,在工业化浪潮中,天福号的师傅们依然坚持使用天然香料,亲自监督生产,只为重现那令人难忘的百年风味。

Tianfu Hao’s braised pork hock technique carries a legend. It is said that the founder’s distinctive braised pork hock flavor won the favor of Empress Dowager Cixi, who awarded him a waist badge, leading to daily tributes to the imperial kitchen, thus creating the tale of “Qianlong’s sauce passed down for a century, Cixi’s waist badge known throughout the world.” Since the Qianlong era, Tianfu Hao has adhered to the ancient method of “master-apprentice succession,” passing down the authentic sauce flavor from generation to generation, with each inheritor taking only three apprentices to ensure the authenticity of the sauce. “The inheritance of traditional crafts is actually a matter of perseverance,” said Liu Gang, the general manager of Tianfu Hao. “While the pace of internet development is undeniably swift, the food industry should not be one that chases after speed..” Thus, in the midst of industrialization, the artisans at Tianfu Hao remain committed to using natural spices and personally overseeing the production process, all in an effort to recreate that unforgettable century-old flavor.

(天福号招牌酱肘子 Tianfu Hao’s braised pork hock)

“守正”与“创新”并重,天福号在坚守传统风味的同时,还积极研发新产品,为“老字号”注入“新生机”。作为中华老字号的杰出代表,天福号致力于产品创新与多样化,通过拓展产品线,实现非遗技艺与现代产品完美融合,比如推出德式“烤猪肘”、西班牙火腿、法式小香肠等西式风情新品,并更新包装与宣传策略,从而获得新一代消费者的认可。

Embracing both tradition and innovation, Tianfu Hao not only preserves its classic flavors but also actively develops new products, infusing “new vitality” into this time-honored brand As an outstanding representative of China’s esteemed traditional brands, Tianfu Hao is dedicated to product innovation and diversification, achieving a perfect fusion of intangible cultural heritage techniques and modern products by expanding its product lines. For instance, it has launched Western-style products such as German Roast pork knuckle, Spanish ham, and French sausages, while also refreshing its packaging and promotional strategies to resonate with the new generation of consumers.

此外,天福号还积极邀请北京联合大学、中国传媒大学等知名高校的学子亲临店铺,品尝传统美食。借助网络平台在年轻群体中的影响力,天福号在社交媒体上推广非遗技艺,让传统文化在新生代心中生根发芽,不断提升天福号酱肘技艺在青年一代中的知名度。刘刚总经理还表示,自己常和大学生交流意见,从他们的视角洞察年轻一代对非遗传承的看法和态度。在与大学生交流的过程中,他也发现了一些问题:“当前,年轻一代对非遗传承的参与度不高。现代教育模式下,学生们受到快节奏时代的影响,往往缺乏投身于手工技艺和花时间沉淀工作的耐心。这个问题不仅是天福号所独有的,也是众多非遗企业共同面临的难题。”

Moreover, Tianfu Hao actively invites students from well-known universities such as Beijing Union University and Communication University of China to visit the store and taste traditional delicacies. Leveraging the influence of online platforms among young people, Tianfu Hao promotes intangible cultural heritage techniques on social media, allowing traditional culture to take root in the hearts of the new generation and continuously boosting the popularity of Tianfu Hao’s braised pork hock technique among young people. General Manager Liu Gang noted that he frequently engages in discussions with college students to gain insights into their perspectives on the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage.Through these interactions , he has identified some challenges: “Currently, the younger generation’s participation in preserving intangible cultural heritage is relatively low. The modern education model, combined with the fast-paced lifestyle of today, often leaves students short of the patience required for engaging in manual crafts and dedicating time to contemplative work.. This issue is not unique to Tianfu Hao but a common challenge faced by many enterprises focused on intangible cultural heritage.”

(学生进天福号体验传统文化 Students visit Tianfu Hao and experience traditional culture)

(天福号进校园宣传传统技艺 Tianfu Hao enters the campus to promote traditional crafts)

借着天福号邀青年大学生入店体验的宝贵机会,来自北京第二外国语学院的留学生梦莉带着对中华传统文化的浓厚好奇心,来到了前门大街。店外,天福号品宣部经理钟赞早已等候多时。他面带微笑,热情地向梦莉介绍了天福号的发展历程和酱肘技艺的传承之路,眼神中流露出对这门传统手艺的深情与骄傲。

Seizing the valuable opportunity to explore Tianfu Hao in depth, Mengli, a foreign student from Beijing International Studies University, arrived at Qianmen Street with a keen curiosity about Chinese traditional culture. Outside the store, Zhong Zan, the manager of Tianfu Hao’s brand promotion department, had been waiting with a smile. He enthusiastically shared the history of Tianfu Hao and the heritage of the braised pork hock technique with Mengli, his eyes shining with a deep affection and pride for this traditional craft.

(钟经理带梦莉来到天福号门口 Manager Zhong brings Mengli to the entrance of Tianfu Hao)

在钟经理的带领下,梦莉来到了展示区。她的目光被一百年前天福号使用的“餐盒”和保温盒所吸引了。这些古董餐具虽历经沧桑,却依旧保存完好。梦莉轻手轻脚地拿起一只餐盒,细致入微地审视着每一处工艺,对那个时代匠人的智慧惊叹不已。接着,梦莉又亲身体验了百年前送餐员组装餐盒的过程。当餐盒在她的手中完美组装,梦莉的脸上绽放出满足的笑容,心中洋溢着满满的成就感。

Under Manager Zhong’s guidance, Mengli entered the display area, where her attention was immediately captured by the “food boxes” and thermal boxes used by Tianfu Hao a century ago. These antique tableware, though showing signs of age, were remarkably well-preserved. Mengli carefully picked up one of the food box, examining every detail of its craftsmanship, and marveling at the ingenuity of the artisans from that era. Next, she had the opportunity to experience the process of assembling a food box, just as deliverymen did a hundred years ago. As she skillfully put the box together, a sense of accomplishment washed over her, and her face lit up with pride at having connected with this piece of history.

(钟经理为梦莉介绍食盒 Manager Zhong introduces the food box to Mengli)

(梦莉亲自组装食盒 Mengli assembles the food box herself)

随后,梦莉品尝了天福号的招牌美食——酱肘子。这道佳肴色泽鲜明,外皮酱黑内肉雪白,诱人的色泽搭配着扑鼻的酱香,令人食欲大增。梦莉轻轻夹起一块酱肘子,放入薄饼中,细细品尝其风味。酱肘子的肉质酥软,轻轻一嚼便化在口中,那醇厚的酱香在舌尖上盘旋,回味悠长。梦莉享受其中,仿佛穿越时空与二百多年的历史对话,感受到了中华老字号的精神与传承。

Afterward, Mengli sampled Tianfu Hao’s signature dish—the braised pork hock. The dish was visually striking, featuring a jet-black exterior contrasted beautifully with snow-white meat inside. The enticing colors, combined with the mouthwatering aroma of the sauce, significantly whetted the appetite.Mengli gently picked up a piece of the braised pork hock and placed it in a thin pancake, savoring each bite. The meat was tender and succulent, melting in her mouth with just a gentle chew, while the rich flavors of the sauce danced on her palate, leaving a lingering aftertaste. Mengli fully immersed herself in the experience, as if she were engaging in a conversation across time with over two hundred years of history, connecting with the spirit and heritage of this esteemed Chinese brand.

品尝过后,梦莉感慨良多。她坦言:“这次体验让我深刻领略了天福号酱肘子的独特魅力,也加深了我对中华传统文化的认识和理解。我一定会将这次经历分享给周围的朋友,让更多的人了解并传承这份宝贵的非物质文化遗产。”

After tasting the dish, Mengli was overwhelmed with emotions. She expressed, “This experience has given me a profound appreciation for the unique charm of Tianfu Hao’s braised pork hock and has enriched my understanding and recognition of Chinese traditional culture. I will definitely share this experience with my friends so that more people can learn about and help preserve this invaluable intangible cultural heritage.”

(梦莉和钟经理一起品尝天福号美食 Mengli and Manager Zhong taste Tianfu Hao’s delicious food together)